We can thank Napoleon for the front of the Duomo
Hundreds of years had passed yet the duomo of Milan was unfinished at the end of the 18th century When Napoleon Bonaparte invaded. He found the cathedral in its unfinished state and ordered that it be completed as soon as possible for his coronation. He famously promised that the French treasury would pay for the completion of the church. Between 1807 and 1813 the façade and most of the spires were placed on the roof and several stained-glass windows were finished. Napoleon was crowned as ‘King of Italy’ inside the duomo and a bizarre statue of him was added to one of the spires as a thank you. The French never did pay for the construction as promised, but the duomo was almost complete and in record time thanks to France’s notorious emperor.
Notre Dame in Paris is famous throughout the world for its gargoyles. These grotesque little creatures originated in France in the 13th century. As well as providing interesting decoration for buildings, they serve an important architectural function as they contain spouts that direct water away from the sides of buildings. Like our modern guttering gargoyles prevent rainwater from running down stone walls and causing erosion. During the Middle Ages they were thought to ward off evil and act as protection as well as serving a practical function. The duomo has 135 of these beasties in all shapes and sizes whereas Notre Dame for which they are famous has just over 30 left today.
Many churches in Italy safeguard relics, artefacts from the past associated with a saint or Christ himself. Saint Helena, the mother of Constantine went to Judaea and purportedly brought relics back in the 4th century AD. The Chiodo Sacro or Holy Nail from the Crucifixion of Christ was placed above the apse and is marked by a small red light bulb. First documented in 1462 it became part of the Rite of the Nivola in which a mechanical cloud covered in drapery and angels was hoisted so the archbishop could retrieve the nail from a niche in the ceiling. The nail is placed into a cross shaped reliquary and sits on the high altar for 40 days. Although the mechanical cloud or nuvola in Italian built by Leonardo da Vinci is no longer used, the Rite of the Nivola is still celebrated in September.
The Madonnina or ‘little Madonna’ is a huge gilded statue of Mary that tops the tallest spire of Milan’s duomo. The four-metre copper and gold leaf statue of the Madonna was designed by Giuseppe Perego and erected in 1774. Over the centuries she has become a symbol of Milan, at 108.5 m (356 ft) high she can be seen from all over the city. By tradition no building in the city can be higher which means she dominates Milan’s skyline. Milan is notoriously cloudy and foggy, yet the Madonnina gives hope. The Milanese consider it fine weather when the Madonnina is visible from a distance since she is frequently covered by mist.
Strolling along Navigli (canal) district is a popular pastime for locals and tourists who come to take an aperitivo along the canal. Few realise the picturesque spot for sipping a Campari was once a heaving thoroughfare of barges and small boats. The Naviglio Grande and Naviglio Pavese are all that remain of a ring road of waterways constructed from the 12th century onwards that allowed access to the landlocked city. They were built primarily for transporting materials to the biggest construction site in town – the Duomo. The special pink Candoglia marble of the duomo comes from a quarry over 80 miles from Milan and in those days the quickest and easiest way of transporting it was by boat. Leonardo da Vinci was commissioned to connect the city to the lakes and by the end of the 15th century the canals reached the river Ticino to the west and the river Adda to the east. Once developed the canals also facilitated trade and commerce enabling Milan to grow in wealth and influence.