Cotoletta Milanese
The oldest dish of Milan is the Cotoletta Milanese, a veal cutlet first mentioned in the twelfth century. Similar to the Austrian wienerschnitzel, the cotoletta Milanese is a cutlet from a milk-fed veal calf, covered in breadcrumbs and fried in butter. The name comes from ‘little rib’, because of the rib bone that remains attached to the meat.
Although the Austrians claim to have invented the dish, it seems more likely they discovered it on arrival in Milan and adopted it. The Viennese version is made from the haunch and is pounded flat. In Milan this is called ‘Elephant’s ear’ Cotoletta al’ orecchia di elefante’ for its irregular shape. The cotoletta is usually served with a slice of lemon and vegetables or salad.
Risotto alla Milanese
Originally called riso col zafran – rice with saffron, this rich, golden risotto is another historic dish of Milan. This simple risotto is as ‘slow food’ as it gets using two ingredients grown in the area. The risotto consists of rice cooked with softened onions, wine, beef broth, parmesan cheese and butter and is served slightly liquidy. The saffron gives it that distinctive golden colour. A true Risotto alla Milanese is cooked with bone marrow which gives it a silky texture. This Milanese staple was apparently invented in the 16th century by a Belgian glassworker, who added the same pigment he used in glassworking to the risotto at a family wedding. Saffron arrived in Italy via Spain with the Moors, it was used in painting and glasswork to achieve a rich golden hue. Rice came to Italy via the East some 800 years ago and has been grown in the Po valley near Milan ever since.
Ossobuco
Ossobuco or marrowbone is a typical Milanese dish, a slice of veal shin with the round section of bone which is surrounded by tender meat, braised slowly in broth and wine with vegetables. The recipe has changed over time, originally it was made with cinnamon and a bay leaf, today tomatoes are often added. An essential ingredient is the gremolada, a finely-ground paste of garlic, lemon peel and parsley, added as a condiment just before serving. Ossobuco is often served with polenta or risotto alla Milanese. The name literally means bone (ossa) hole (buco) or ossbus in the local dialect. The bone hole, according to the locals, is the best bit as it is filled with nutrient rich marrow jelly that you scoop out with a special tool known as the esattore (tax collector) or can suck it out if you want to be more rustic. Do not leave it as your waiter will probably remind you, you left the best part!
Polenta
An ancient dish eaten by peasants, polenta is a staple of northern Italy and can be found in the cuisine of Lombardy, Veneto and Piedmont. Polenta can be served in a porridge-like consistency or when allowed to dry it forms a soft cakey consistency much like corn-bread from the American south. Usually served alongside hearty stews and meaty sauces, dubbed ‘Italian grits’ it is made with boiled cornmeal. Whilst filling and cheap, it is labour intensive as it requires constant stirring with a wooden spoon as it boils.
In Milan it is made from corn grown in nearby Bergamo which came from the new world in the 15th century, but as a staple it dates back to ancient Mesopotamia, Egypt and was enjoyed by the ancient Romans. As it is so versatile it can be eaten in many ways, the Milanese eat it with butter and parmesan alongside Ossobuco and in cake form layered with cheese. A favoured pairing is polenta and the rich creamy blue cheese from a tiny town near Milan called Gorgonzola.
Osteria dei Vecchi Sapori serves only polenta with myriad choices hailing from the traditional Milanese cookbook. At Ulmet near Basilica San Lorenzo look for elegant modern pairings like venison or baccala.
Gorgonzola
Gorgonzola is a creamy, fresh cheese made with whole cow’s milk, known for its characteristic mottled green veins and its smell. There are two varieties of Gorgonzola, they differ in age, consistency and taste. The younger variety Dolce which means ‘sweet’ is aged for 50 to 150 days giving it a creamy and slightly sweet finish. The piccante or ‘spicy’ version is aged for longer (80-270 days) which makes it more solid, slightly crumblier with darker veins and a stronger blue cheese taste.
Gorgonzola is the name of a small town north-east of Milan that claims to have invented the cheese in the 9th century. Under EU law Gorgonzola has been given protected DOP status which means it can only be produced using milk from a handful of provinces within about 100 kilometres of Milan.
As a creamy cheese Gorgonzola is incredibly versatile, it pairs beautifully with pears, figs, walnuts and even honey. In Milan, you may find it in polenta, risotto or served on its own with bread. A winning combination popular in the north is radicchio – a bitter red lettuce with gorgonzola dolce. The creamy sweetness of the cheese contrasts the bitterness of the radicchio in pasta dishes.
Panettone
Literally translated as ‘big cake’ Panettone is essentially a fluffy, sweet bread that contains candied orange, citron, lemon zest and raisins. It has been part of the Christmas tradition since the 18th century when it was called ‘luxury bread’. Extremely labour intensive, the dough is cured first (like sourdough) and then takes several days to prove which gives it that airy consistency and the fruit is added dry without pre-soaking.
Today there are myriad varieties of panettone from the traditional recipe with candied fruit to new combinations like pear and chocolate or caramelised pumpkin. This 100% Milanese treat is known throughout the world today thanks to the baker ‘Motta’, who not only gave it the tall dome-shaped but also automated the production process enabling him to produce on a grand scale and sell them abroad. Efforts are ongoing to claim protected D.O.P status for the Panettone.
